3 Gifts of Christmas: Lacy Crochet, The Syn Shrug or Lap Blanket Pattern

3 Gifts of Christmas: The Syn Shrug (or Lap Blanket)

hey... I have a surprise for you... no ends to weave in! No holding your breath hoping beyond hope that you don't run out of yarn before you reach your desired width! While the sample below is made using a specific type of yarn because I had it in my stash and it's perfect for the friend I'm making this shrug for, this actual method of crochet and pattern is designed to grab 100 yarn balls left over in different project bags that are "about the same weight" and make a gorgeous striped fringed blanket that anyone with any sense of fashion and fun would love on sight!

Part 2 of a 3 part series being brought to you in monthly installments, this gorgeous almost flirty shrug can be made in just a few days (it really depends on how much you're having fun and how much time you have, I think this gorgeous gift only took me about 10 hours from start to finish, and I was often distracted by Netflix or conversations with my guys here in the living room.) Frugal and fun, the idea is to raid your yarn stash for all those bits too big to pitch and too small to use anywhere else. Or those fun skeins that almost but don't quite match? You know the ones I'm thinking of... they're leftover from a couple projects a few years ago, or inherited from Nanny when she moved into mom's house. Those yarns!

This particular method of crochet can't actually be called a pattern. BECAUSE I'm telling you exactly what I did from start to finish we'll go ahead and call it that, and if you're NOT a beginner you'll see very quickly how many thousands of options you have to go any way you want with this incredibly versatile and addicting project method.

BEGINNER LEVEL - American Crochet Terms

This process will require you to know how to form your starting slip knot, how to chain, how to count the stitches you have made, how to make a Double Crochet stitch, and how to perform a Front Post Double Crochet.

STITCHES AND TERMS

CH = Chain

DC = Double Crochet

SK = Skip number of stitches indicated in pattern

( # ) = number of stitches in the row

FPDC = Front Post Double Crochet

NOTE: A Front Post Double Crochet (pictured below when first mentioned in the pattern) is completed by yarning over and inserting your hook under the post of the Double Crochet in the previous row and then completing your regular Double Crochet stitch, effectively pulling the stitch up into a ridge.

SUPPLIES NEEDED

- I used 1100 yards of Red Heart Roll With it Sparkle in Pixie, you may need more or fewer yards depending on your yarn of choice

- A crochet hook 1 full size larger than recommended for your yarn of choice. This is usually listed on the label for your yarn. If you're unsure, a medium weight yarn usually requires a 5.5mm hook, so I'd go up to 6.5 or 7mm. Light weight yarn like Red Heart Roll With It requires a 5mm hook, I went up to 6mm.

- At least 2 locking stitch markers. You can even use a safety pin, lever back earring or paper clip here, just some way to mark where you are on the first row and then which side is the "start" or "front" from there on.

- Scissors

TIPS and TRICKS

1. FIND THOSE STITCH MARKERS

2. Sit back and read through the instructions before you get started. NO, really... you're about to get the surprise of a lifetime. 

3. Make sure you have music, or a good show, or good company while you're working. Have a tea or a coffee or your favorite soda (I'll sit here and be jealous, I gave up soda for dietary reasons and miss it almost every day) and settle in because this is fun and addictive and you're making a gift, which is really danged awesome of you!

4. If you're a beginner the stitches are photographed and described below. I know my method doesn't always work for everyone, so please go to YouTube and look up the stitch name as provided. I'm certain there's at least one person out there who can explain it the way you need to hear or see it if my explanation doesn't work for you. That doesn't make either of us losers, it just means I don't say it the way you need to hear it. :D

5. The hardest thing to do in this whole thing is to count your stitches accurately. It takes practice. When I was learning I actually used a scrap of yarn in every 25th stitch of long projects because I couldn't hold my stitch count in my head and they helped me keep track from row to row.

Ok... ready for it?

The Method

The first row is made up of a chain. You will CH the length of your fringe, place a stitch marker and CH the length of the shrug, place a stitch marker and then CH the same length of fringe that you started with. (NOTE: with a 6mm hook using light weight yarn my arm width is 200 CH or 5'4" - measure your CH for the length you want between your stitch markers for the length of your project.)

The second row is crocheted between the stitch markers on your starting CH. This sets the length and direction of every other row in the project.

After the second row the second or "end" stitch marker can be removed because you will end at the top of that stitch and will CH to create your fringe. The first stitch marker is kept in place as a reminder of what is the front or "right side" of your project. You will start on this side for every row of the pattern. 

Every row is a stand alone begun and ended before the next row is added. This is how we avoid having ends to sew in! This is how we can go through a huge pile of scrap balls in our stash and make truly gorgeous striped or solid throws quickly. :D This is why I say with total confidence that if you're comfortable with beginning crochet you can now make 1,000's of different variations of this blanket and create your own amazing patterns. Please just tag me because I love to see! (info is at the bottom of this post)

The pattern below combines Solid, Net and Ribbed sections to achieve the finished look.

The Syn Shrug (or Lap Blanket) Pattern

Row 1: CH 25, place stitch marker in 25th chain. CH 200 and add a stitch marker in the 200th CH then CH 25 more. Cut your yarn and pull the end through the loop to end the CH. (250)

Solid Rows 2-4: CH 25, DC across between stitch markers (row 2 only, every row after 2 begin in the top of first stitch in previous row) (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Net Rows 5-7: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of the previous row. CH 1 and SK 1 from the previous row then DC. Repeat this pattern to the last stitch where you will DC to end (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Solid Row 8: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of the previous row. DC in the CH and in the top of each DC from the previous row. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Solid Rows 9-12: CH 25, DC in top of each stitch across. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Net Rows 13-15: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of the previous row. CH 1 and SK 1 from the previous row then DC. Repeat this pattern to the last stitch where you will DC to end (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Ribbed Row 16: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of the previous row. DC in the CH and in the top of each DC from the previous row. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Ribbed Rows 17-20: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of your previous row. FPDC next stitch, DC in the top of the next 2 stitches, FPDC and repeat this pattern to the end where you should end with a FPDC followed by a DC. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Solid Rows 21-25: CH 25, DC in top of each stitch across. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Net Rows 26-28: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of the previous row. CH 1 and SK 1 from the previous row then DC. Repeat this pattern to the last stitch where you will DC to end (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Solid Row 29: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of the previous row. DC in the CH and in the top of each DC from the previous row. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Solid Rows 30-33: CH 25, DC in top of each stitch across. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Ribbed Rows 34-38: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of your previous row. FPDC next stitch, DC in the top of the next 2 stitches, FPDC and repeat this pattern to the end where you should end with a FPDC followed by a DC. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Solid Rows 39-43: CH 25, DC in top of each stitch across. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Net Rows 44-46: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of the previous row. CH 1 and SK 1 from the previous row then DC. Repeat this pattern to the last stitch where you will DC to end (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Solid Row 47: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of the previous row. DC in the CH and in the top of each DC from the previous row. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Solid Rows 48-51: CH 25, DC in top of each stitch across. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Ribbed Rows 52-56: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of your previous row. FPDC next stitch, DC in the top of the next 2 stitches, FPDC and repeat this pattern to the end where you should end with a FPDC followed by a DC. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Net Rows 57-59: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of the previous row. CH 1 and SK 1 from the previous row then DC. Repeat this pattern to the last stitch where you will DC to end (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Solid Row 60: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of the previous row. DC in the CH and in the top of each DC from the previous row. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Solid Rows 61-64: CH 25, DC in top of each stitch across. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Net Rows 65-67: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of the previous row. CH 1 and SK 1 from the previous row then DC. Repeat this pattern to the last stitch where you will DC to end (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Solid Row 68: CH 25, DC in top of first stitch of the previous row. DC in the CH and in the top of each DC from the previous row. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

Solid Rows 69-70: CH 25, DC in top of each stitch across. (200) CH 25, cut your yarn and pull through the loop to finish the CH.

And that's it. Mine measures 5'6" long without fringe and 3' 6" wide without pulling or tugging.

As with everything you will find here on my blog, you can sell or share or gift anything made with any of my patterns or methods or whatever (I don't actually think we own innovation or change to things as old as the crafting we do) I just ask that you don't claim my work as your own so give me credit for this particular pattern or showing you how awesome you are and encouraging you to make up your own pattern and tag me on Instagram #12SquaredCreations so I can see what you did! :D 

I'm 12SquaredCreations on Instagram and Pinterest as well as here and lots of other places. Just 12Squared on Ravelry.